Meeting a remarkable family: Dr Tsuneto and Akiko Tokunaga

A photo album for this trip is in this album.

In our Indian tradition, we have a saying called वसुधैव कुटुंबकम, in roman script (vasudhaiva kutumbakam), meaning that the entire world is a family of ours. Last week, I went for a trip to Shimanai Kaido, where I had an opportunity to see this ideal being practiced in real life.  I had the very good fortune to stay as a guest of Dr Tsuneto Tokunaga, and Mrs Akiko Tokunaga, and this blogpost is a humble attempt to share the story of these remarkable people in brief.

As mentioned before, my friend, an avid Airbnb user found that in Imabari, there is a certain host family(using Airbnb) who seemed to have been getting extremely nice reviews. I didn't pay much attention to it that time, thinking that being polite or giving compliment is a usual human nature, more so in Japan. But meeting this family proved the inadequacy of words in describing the bright side of human nature.

Japanese people are know to be reserved, and mostly meet others outside their home. Hence I had not got much opportunity to see their homes first hand(except of a friend's house in Hokkaido). This visit also provided me an opportunity to have a look into the amazingly maintained Japanese houses.

A short stay of 12 hours
After cycling for about 30 kms in five hours, and hitchhiking the remaining way to Imabari, I found myself at 9:00 pm at Imabari station. Airbnb information talked about 'bed and breakfast', hence i reasoned with myself and my friend that first have the dinner outside, and then reach the house of the guest, so as not to bother them with our hunger. But we had informed about our arrival time to be at 9:00, so we decided to proceed to the house with some cup noodles for worst case scenario.

Outside his home, we were welcomed by Dr Tsuneto, who asked: "Are you from India?" On our node of yes, he cheerfully led us inside into his home, promptly into the dining space. His wife, Mrs Akiko was there to welcome us, and had an equally cheerful demeanor.  We were made to feel completely at home by their bright smiles, kind words and welcoming gesture. First of all, Dr Tsuneto showed us around the house, the resting area, and other parts of the house. The house was impeccably clean, beautifully decorated with paintings, and extremely well organized. Honestly, I could only compare it with nothing less than a five star accommodation!

Soon after that, Mrs Akiko asked us to have dinner, which she had already and specially prepared for us, consisting of vegetable tempura(fried vegetables)!! I was not prepared for so much of hospitality from an unknown, and an elderly family. Despite our soft protests, we were lovingly made to sit down for dinner. Our host family also sat down with us. By this time, I got extremely curious about them, and how someone could be so nice and warming to visitors. Isn't it tiring, and a nuisance to have unknown people arriving at one's home? I tried to look into the mind of them in this interaction.

Getting to know the family

Dr Tsuneto Tokunaga: 77 years old. Born in Fukuyama, Hiroshima prefecture.
                                       Worked as Doctor at Red cross hospital in Takamatsu.
                                       Retired 3 years ago.
                                       Family name: Joyato

Mrs Akiko Tokunaga is 73.

They have two sons and two daughters, and one son is a Physician in Hiroshima university. Both are in excellent health of the body and spirit. I found that their nature was very much complimentary to each other, there was remarkable harmony between them in thinking, and they helped each other in everything they did. There was no ego involved at all.

Next surprising thing was to know that after retiring, that is only 3 years ago, they had undertaken a walking journey of 1400 kms!  As they said, they were helped in this journey by many people, and thus they also want to help others. They started hosting people from December 2014, and in this short duration of about an year and a half, they have hosted about 150 people from about 45 different countries! A complete list of travelers, country wise is given below:

They try to host the family every three days. I asked Joyato san what does he do in free time. His reply was that he doesn't have free time, as replying to hosting requests takes all of his time.
They told us that they have visited many countries, and have no favorites. It was interesting to know that while they have hosted 100s of people till now, they themselves have never got an opportunity to be a guest of others, and have always stayed in hotels!

About his religious beliefs, Joyato san mentioned it as NOBA, that is 'Not Only But Also'. He elaborated it he doesn't have strong belief as such, and accepts goodness from all sides or religions. That is, not only his own, but other religions also :) What a sweet message for plurality!

In the course of conversation, I inquired them how often do they meet their children. Honestly, I thought that it might not not be so often, and hence they invite new people to homes to keep boredom away in some way. To my sweet surprise, they told me that they have a family dinner with their children and grandchildren every weekend, that's Saturday and Sunday! I don't know many families who have such a nice family tradition, and close bonding between parents and children, at least in Japan.

After talking with them over dinner about 45 minutes, being tired, I went to sleep. Next day, when I woke up at 6 am and went downstairs, I found them already awake, and preparing breakfast for us!! That was really overwhelming to see, two elderly people preparing breakfast at such an early hour for guests they don't know properly. And they have been doing it for numerous people, because it makes their beautiful heart happy. All of this without any pretension, any show off, and without any slightest expectations of any thing in return. It was as if some one is living the ideals in scriptures, but which only a handful have the depth to follow.

Breakfast and Return Journey, and a gift for us
After getting ready in the morning, I decided to take a walk outside and in the neighborhood. After returning from that, an extremely delicious and nicely prepared breakfast set, all vegetables was waiting! It was everything I often dream of: nutritious, and elegantly prepared.

I couldn't thank Joyato san enough for all the hospitality and love he had been showering. But apparently, it was not all, and more surprised lay in store. Over the breakfast, I came to know that they actually donate all the token money they get from their guests to an organization called 'Doctors without Borders'. Their care and concern thus extends in many directions. Truly, love sees no distinctions, no boundaries.

The name Joyato itself means "one who provides light". On the gates of Joyato san, it was written 'Light house for travelers'. Beautiful example of one's name and actions being in complete harmony.

In this small stay itself, I felt blessed many times. To see a family transcending a generation barrier, language barrier and self-barrier to extend genuine affection to passers by is a humbling experience. We all need to open our doors more.

I had to leave in the morning itself back to Okunoshima. These blessed people themselves suggested that on a short stretch of that route, it's difficult to find public transport, and hence offered to drive us up to that point, about 40 mins drive away! Again despite our protests that it's not needed, they prevailed on us, and had their way. Further, before leaving their home, they also gave parting away gifts to us, in the form of beautiful clothes! On the other hand, we had nothing to offer them. Also, even if we had something to offer, it would be really, really nothing compared to what we got from them.

Thus, in a short span of 12 hours, I had the good fortune to witness how a beautiful mind works, and how some people rise above their own comfort to bring comfort to other people. I hope more and more people will come to know of the beautiful and blessed life of Dr Tsuneto and Mrs Akiko. My heartfelt thanks to them once again!

Trip to Shimanami Kaido

A photo album for this trip is in this album.

The long awaited journey
Before arriving in Japan, I already had my blog, and had expected that I would write about life over here frequently. That didn't happen somehow. But finally, I am getting to write about a trip I undertook. This trip itself came about after lot of procrastination.

Anyway, this weekend(14-15 May 2016) I had a chance to visit a cycling stretch in Japan, known as 'Shimanami Kaido'. This stretch extends from Onomichi in Hiroshima prefecture in Eastern Japan, to Imabari in the Ehime prefecture towards south. The total stretch is 71 km long, which passes through 6 different islands namely Mukaishima, Inoshima, Ikuchi, Omishima, Hakata and Oshima, after which there is Imabari. This route lies in the Seto inland sea, and is famous for its scenic beauty. I had came to know about it from a visitor to Japan, and had thought about going there for long time. Somehow, mostly due to laziness, it was always put on a back-burner.

As fate would have it, I lazily mentioned about visiting Shimanai Kaido to a friend, and the plan was set up, but it was scheduled after an intensely busy week for me when I had no time to plan or check any details of the trip by myself. Generally I try to plan and cross check the important parts of a trip, but left everything 'Ram bharose' this time :p Also, I generally travel in night in a bus to minimize staying anywhere in night. But I was told that Airbnb in Imabari is showing about a host who has attracted very good reviews. I reluctantly agreed about that, and didn't think much over it. The plan was to start cycling on Saturday from afternoon about 1 pm, go as far as our stamina allowed, then take a bus or ferry to Imabari and staying with the host family. Next day was scheduled to visit Okunoshima, an Island famous for large number of inhabiting rabbits and then return back. 

Setting things in motion

Come Saturday, and I was bound towards Onomichi. We had a good buffet lunch in the Salvatore, where they prepared special vegetarian pasta on special request. That uplifted the mood, and energized the mind before a seemingly tiring cycling session. Soon, we proceeded towards the bike rental area, hoping to select from a large range of options, as this route is well known and popular. But to our surprise, we found that almost all bikes were already borrowed, leaving a very small pool for us. Those bikes were with small tyre, but we had no other options. Further we came to know that the rental shops closes at 5:00 pm, and rented bikes must be returned before that, else it can only be returned next day. If we had that information earlier, the trip schedule would have been different. But many times, not micromanaging things too teach you lot of new things :)

Finally, engines roaring, winds streaming, sun glazing, our cycles roared ahead at 2:30 pm in the afternoon, from Mukaishima towards Imabari. The weather was almost perfect with deep blue sky. I was eager to get near the open sea, and the cycles didn't disappoint. The scenery laying in front of me was a revelation. Small mountains littered across, bluish water connecting them, majestic bridges to jump across islands, and the unblemished road full of smiling cycling enthusiasts.  

Climbing the mountain to cross the bridge seemed taxing, but was immediately well rewarded with a smooth trajectory downwards. The cycling was smooth, and with numerous breaks in between, we traversed three islands, which was about 30 kms. Along the way, the islands were full of lemon and orange trees. The lemon trees were full of its flowers and its strong smell permeated the island, but we didn't see any lemon fruit actually. We were getting the a strong lemon smell mixed with the smell of fresh and open sea. The whole scenery was as beautiful as I could have expected from a long awaited trip. 

But as we had started late, the sun started to get dim, and sunset was in sight. It was given that we cannot return the bike by designated time. Also, though there was a ferry from Hakata(4th Island) to Imabari at 7:20, it became clear we are not gonna make it. It was about 7:30 pm when we reached the third island Omishima, and the sun was almost set by that time. Though tiredness had not crept in, careful to avoid any risk, we decided to call it a day for cycling, and take a bus to Imabari. At the Omoshima bike rental, we had no option(with due apologizes to the rental system) but to carefully return our bikes after locking them and hiding the keys inside the bike rental papers. The bus stand was nearby only. But when we reached there, we found that the last bus had already departed for Imabari, and we had no way to use public transport! These islands are small places, with few residents, so we didn't have many people around. Luckily, an old lady at the bus station offered us some help and gave her contact number in case we need it. Thanking her, the question remained now how to reach Imabari, which was about 40 kms away.

Hitchhiking

I had never hitchhiked in Japan before, neither in India. While one option was definitely to stay back in Omishima instead of going to Imabari, the curiosity to meet our hosts, replete with nice reviews convinced us to move onward. We decided to take hitchhike, keeping in mind the helpfulness of the Japanese people. And lo and behold, no sooner than we asked for help, it arrived! We waited at a signal for a car to help us reach Iamabari, and a young man stopped his car, and cheerfully agreed to ferry us over there. He was friendly guy, in his late twenties I guess, and the discussion with him veered around life in Japan. The roads in Japan are excelled, and the car journey seemed like a breeze, bringing us to Imabari very quickly. Profoundly thanking him, who dropped us at the station, we proceeded to the house of our host: Mr Tsuneto.

Staying as the guest of Mr Tsuneto, at his extremely well kept house was a revelation in many senses. So much so that it deserves an entire post in itself, which I will actually honored to write. A through and through gentleman, at the age of 77, he is an embodiment of cheerfulness and everything best that the Japanese civilization, or maybe humanity has to offer. We stayed there about 12 hours, but every moment of it was precious. 

Dr Tsuneto, or Joyato san was so gracious that next day, despite our loving protests, drove us back in the morning to Omishima island from where the plan was to go to Okunoshima, the rabbit island which has a perimeter of not more than 5 km. The ferry to it is a 15 mins ride, which brings people to this small island.

Usagi shima, or the Rabbit Island

I had been to Okunoshima once before, and had enjoyed the place. Being there once again was equally fascinating. The island is surrounded by very clear water, numerous rabbits, many families and children who bring nicely cut carrot, cabbage and other rabbit food to feed these cute bunnies. The rabbits seemed to have adapted to this environment of pampering and gluttoning, and won't move even if you try to scare them. They are sleeping everywhere, yawning, or otherwise running away after snatching a piece of carrot from you. Entire island is full of such views.

But this cute island hides a rather dark history behind itself. Due to its small size and thus hiding, it was used as a secret location for developing poison gas before the world war 2. The remnants of poison gas building can be seen even today. The island is surrounded by check posts which was used to keep an eye on any potential attackers on this place. The rabbits were also used initially to check the effect of poison. But now the place has a museum dedicated to show case the ills of such horrific projects, and is trying to redeem itself.

Epilogue

After staying in Okunoshima for about 3 hours, we took the ferry towards Onomichi, where the return bus was from Fukuyama at 6:30 pm. Luckily, before boarding the bus, we had sufficient time and came to know that a Rose festival was being held nearby in Fukuyama. It was a small garden, full of thousands of roses of many different vibrant color. It was beautiful scene.

But all good things come to an end. So did this trip too. But maybe, all endings lead to new beginnings too. There are many other trips which I have kept delaying due to my laziness. Hope I will get to travel to few other places as well in Japan.