Remembering Yurie

In our life, we get to meet many people. Among the countless, few of them leave lasting impact on us with their perspective and actions. In such cases, the length of association with them becomes irrelevant, its their impact which counts. To preserve and recount their story, and sometimes presenting it to a wider range of people seems a beautiful way to recall their influence and the impact of their work. Among the many that I have been fortunate to come across during my stay in Japan, I will like to remember my friend Yurie Moriwaki today, on the day of her Birthday.

Knowing Yurie
During the India Festival in October 2014, held annually in Kobe, my friend Yoshiki Tomita told me that a friend of his wants to go to India, and would like to get some information from me in that regard. I was happy to help Yoshiki's friend, and invited them to the Riken Open house day, which too is held annually in the third week of October. That is how I was introduced to Yurie Moriwaki.

After the preliminary introduction, Yurie told me that she is working for a startup, named Shiru Cafe, which aims to bring recruiters and university students together by providing information through a cafe. A large portion of the expense of this cafe is borne by the sponsorship from the companies. The cafe had already opened its branch in few Japanese universities, and it was looking forward to expand its branches in India, in particular, the IITs and the IIMs. In this context, Yurie wanted some information about my Alma mater, IIT Kharagpur. It was decided that she will collect her set of questions for this, and I will try to answer them, in the context of feasibility of opening the cafes in India.

Shiru Cafe and its Opening
We met after 2-3 weeks of this in a Thai restaurant. She had brought her set of about 10 questions printed in 2-3 pages, and the effort and detailed work she had put in that was evident. Her effort was aimed towards understanding what are the strong points of the IIT system, would the administration help or hinder opening the cafes etc. After finishing the dinner and most of the questions, I also promised to introduce any other relevant person in this regard. Subsequent to this meeting, we interacted a few more times using social media. Yurie always had detailed questions, and she tried to understand the finer point of things.

One of her effort was in the direction of getting in touch with some administrative person from any of the IITs. I recommended to find the IDs and mail the gymkhana VP, or the different Deans of the institute. I am not sure if she could have a prompt response from these email IDs or not. Fortunately, from my friends, I got to know of a Japanese faculty who was working in IIT Hyderabad. Yurie got in touch with him, and he helped them a lot in their future steps.

After these prepatations, in the early months of 2015, Yurie had the first chance to visit India with her Shiru cafe team. Though they wanted to visit multiple places, but they only could visit IIT Delhi, Hyderabad and some other place. Despite their effort, their team could not visit Kharagpur this time. During this visit, they had very positive response from IIT Hyderabad.

Returning from their trip, Shiru cafe team started to work fast paced towards pitching for the cafe in these campus, and they planned another trip in 2-3 months. I met Yurie second time in person during this, where I helped her preparing to give a presentation to the Deans, and why the cafe should be opened. Smart and dedicated, she was never tired of her job, irrespective of the time. Her practice speech this time ended about 2 am, where I was dead tired but she had no trace of any tiredness!

Fast forward few months, I came to know that Shiru cafe was not only accepted to open in IIT Hyderabad campus, but it was going to do the inauguration in April 2016! The speed of the work was too fast and good to be believable at first to me, but they did do the inauguration in scheduled time.

Last Meeting
After she was back from the opening of the cafe, I was curious to meet her to hear about her experiences in India, but it could not materialize due to the busy schedules. Fortunately, 4 September worked good for her, we met at my share house at Nada. I prepared some easy Indian dishes and snacks. In what I got to hear, she was positive and kind of neutral in her experiences in India, though the spicy food was not up to her taste. She did mention that her iPhone was lost somewhere in the trip, which was sad to know, but she treated it as a minor thing.
I also inquired her about what she intended to do in her future. My assumption was she would keep working for startups, or go for an MBA, but she mentioned she wants to go for a Masters in Computer Science, and after which she wanted to work for a large company. I recommended that in that case, instead of Japan, she could go to Europe or US for a Masters, and then come back to work in Japan. She replied that she will look for the relevant information in this regard. After a long chat, she proceeded to her home. Before that, I invited her to the India festival which was coming next month. I joked that I might actually forget later to invite her, but irrespective of that, she should come over there. She laughed a lot at this, and promised she would try to come.

Final Goodbye
As fate had it in store, one night before the India Festival was scheduled to start, I got a message from Yoshiki, about whether I had heard the news or not. With trepidation, i replied in negative, and came to know that Yurie had left for the heavenly abode. The incident involved a collision of Yurie's scooter with a luggage truck. Such incidents are not so common in Japan, but life is always uncertain.

Due to this turn of things, instead of being able to see her in the India festival, I was attending her wake ceremony (part of Japanese funeral), which is the last chance to pay respects to the departed soul. The father of Yurie had to make some comments there, most of which I could not understand. He did mention he has resolved to work for reducing traffic accidents. It was very brave of him to be able to speak on such a sad occasion.

After this, I had an opportunity to get to know some of Yurie's friends from Shiru cafe. I was extremely surprised to know that just before a day or two of the accident, she had resigned from Shiru cafe, which she helped grow and nurture to such an extent. It was as if she finished one of her jobs with dedication and honor, and set out for bigger things!

People live by their actions
In her life, Yurie achieved more than what we do in much longer life, and she continues to live through the Shiru cafe she was so instrumental in being opened in India. In the few interactions I had with her, I was always struck by how busy she kept herself in the multiple things she did. Her persistent laughter also would have been a stress buster for her friends. I am sure wherever she would be, she would be making things easier for people around her by her sheer energy and workforce. She would always be alive in that spirit, and I consider myself fortunate to have got to know her.

Book Synnopsis: Neanderthal man, In Search of Lost Genome

As the technology proceeds at a very fast pace, full genome or DNA sequencing is becoming increasingly accessible, and in few decades, it will be a common thing for all individuals. Not only alive humans or animals, sequencing has become vital tool to analyze our genetic history and answering questions about evolution. Few decades ago, discovery of the fossils of Dinosaurs had generated huge interest worldwide. Am sure the question goes through many people's mind: Is it possible to sequence the DNA of dinosaurs, and hence possible to clone them in future in a lab at a future date?

In March, I went to a small party at my previous share house, and had a short discussion with Rick Bowen, who told me about an exciting news: 'Blood samples of dinosaurs have been discovered at a fossil site'. Though I didn't know much about these things, it seemed quite incredulous to me, as survival of blood samples for such a long time didn't look correct. Reading the news article, it did say that red blood cells from dinosaurs 75 million years old have been discovered.

Few days later, I went to Umeda Book store, as there was a sale going on for foreign language books. Accidentally, I saw the book: 'Neanderthal Man: In search of Lost Genome'. With part trepidation and part enthusiasm, I bought a copy of the book. Next week, I was traveling to India. Not only due to the long travel hours, but because of its fantastic writing style, the book became a memorable read for me. I will try to recollect my impressions from the book.

The Book
Written by Svante Paabo, a Palentologist and Group Director at the Max Planck Institute of Germany, the book presents a fascinating account of his research work of last 30 years. His journey in the field of ancient genomes started from his PhD days, where apart from his lab work, he started pursuing extracting the DNA materials from Egyptian Mummies as his hidden project! The mummy extracts were obtained from a museum curator in East Germany. He actually showed that DNA material can be obtained from the Mummy, and his work led to a single author publication in the prestigious journal Nature! This led him to being invited to give talks at the Cold Spring harbor seminars, and he moved to an American university for his post doctoral fellowship. Subsequently, he moved to East Germany after few years to start his independent lab.

Challenging aspects of Ancient DNA
Why is extracting the ancient DNA challenging? There are two major problems in this.

• The first problem is, DNA are long chained molecules which replicate, and acquire mutation or error in this process. But error correction mechanisms remove the error most of the time, but this process consumes energy. But after death, the cells of the body dont get any more energy supply, and start to decompose, leading to breakdown of the biomolecules. Thus, the cells, DNA, RNA, proteins all start to break into small components, and get fragmented. Presence of humidity aids this process. 
• The second problem is contamination with genetic material of other species. Suppose some ancient genetic material has been obtained. But the genetic material is so abundant in our environment, that the ancient samples may easily get contaminated with other materials, and may lead to erroneous conclusions, if sufficient attention is not paid to it.

The book talks about how the research group of Svante solved the above two problems, and established protocols for reliable extraction of ancient DNA. Svante discusses the following things in this context:

Obtaining Ancient DNA: If some genetic material, for example some cellular extracts, is located in a cavity, or an interior cave which protects it from humidity, then some extracts of identifiable genetic material can be found. Using identification and purification techniques of cloning, these extracts can be multiplied by many order of magnitudes, and can be used for sequencing. The author mentions that even with ideal conditions, ancients DNA cannot survive beyond 10 million years. He also mocked some results published in Science, which claimed to sequence the genetic material of about 75-80 million years old.

Preventing the contamination: Svante established two clean rooms in his lab, where one must wear full body gear to enter, and the work could be done only after first arrival in the lab, and not after lurking around other parts of the lab. He also established the protocol that before sequencing the DNA, first empty labels should be shown to be free of any contamination.

Based on the above two principles, his group has been able to discover a significant number of important results and insights. The major topics and results discussed in the book are the following:

• Sequencing the Neanderthal Mitochondrial DNA in 1997
• Sequencing the Neanderthal Genome: Full DNA Sequencing in 2008
• Sequencing the DNA of Ice-man, 20,000 years old
• Sequencing the DNA from finger remains of a new species: Denisovans, about 2010
• Comparing DNA sequence of neanderthals, humans and apes to analyze why humans gained superior ability

Starting his career, Svante was motivated by the question of sequencing the DNA of Neanderthal Man, and shed light on the evolutionary tale of humans. He devoted his energy towards this, and obtained DNA samples from museums, which allowed them samples of size 5x5 cms. In 1993, they started by focusing on the mitochondrial DNA, which is acquired through the maternal side and is mostly unchanged across generations. Using a sequence of length 300 nucleotide, they were able to identify the mitochondrial DNA of the Neanderthals, and they compared it with humans. The result was published in the journal Cell.

Their group kept on upgrading their methods, and around 2005, they found ways to purify and amplify DNA samples 20 times as compared to their methods in 1997. This led them to ambitiously try sequencing the full DNA sequence of the neanderthals, in which they were generously supported by an extraordinarily large grant from the Max Plank institute. With breakneck speed, they completed this work and let the world have a peek at the DNA sequence of our most close ancestors! The fossil remains were about 3-4 million years old.

Using their method, they did many few other interesting works, like sequencing the DNA of ice-man, who was found buried in ice for last 20,000 years. On the evolutionary scale, this is quite recent, and they found difference in just one place in a sequence length of about 40 if I remember it right. They also analyzed a sample of finger tips, and showed that instead of neanderthals, it belonged to another species, subsequently called the Denisovans. It was the first time that instead of fossils, DNA sequencing led to the discovery of a new species.

Difference between Apes and Humans, and why copying is not that bad!
Based on the differences between apes and humans, and comparing with other psychological studies, a partial answer to a very interesting question comes to light. Why did humans became so powerful, and which genetic mutation enabled them?

Some scientists analyzed the differences between apes and humans, by comparing the growth of their babies, and saw two differences. First, they saw that even if ape babies are put in human families, have access to language and spoken words, they cannot develop the ability of language beyond 3-4 elementary words. Another interesting difference they saw was, the development of ape and human babies is similar till about 1 year. But after that, human babies develop the habit of copying the actions of nearby people, which apes cannot do! This ability to copy others, and thus learn from others, is one of the foundations of learning, education, and hence civilization. Thus a mutation, which enabled us to copy others could be the reason for humans becoming so powerful!

One funny aspect of this book is the author keeps on criticizing the two journals, Nature and Science, calling them hungry for publicity and tending to publish work just to gather attention. At the same time, they keep on publishing in these two journals by scores!

On a personal note, the book is very honest and candid. The author talks about many personal aspects, like his lab meetings, heated discussions and freedom in group meetings, need of young scientists to publish in the competitive world of science, intense competition and rivalry between different labs and groups etc. He also accepts his affair with the wife of a colleague, where the lady was his old post doctoral friend, and they subsequently marry each other. The book was like a thriller and a provocative read.

Postscript: Even more powerful ways to extract ancient DNA
In May, I googled for new results from the Paabo group, and it took my breath away. The author with one of his students have taken ancient DNA extraction to another level, by purifying and extracting such DNAs from a handful of dust of the ancient caves. That is, they purify dirt and dust, and look for lingering pieces of very small amount of DNA in them. This would totally change the approach in paleontology, and should lead to remarkable and diverse discovery in the future.

So the casual discussion on dinosaur blood samples, and a serendipitous encounter in a book store led to an enthralling read, one of its kind. Grab a copy of it, if you have sufficient time and leisure! 

The Hugging Saint: Amma (Mata Amritanandamayi)

We come across innumerable people in our life, many endowed with their special qualities, talents and charm. Among such giants, I wish to talk here about the life of someone who has touched upon, and continues to touch the life of millions everyday through her indefatigable energy, compassionate heart, and an indescribable urge to hug whosoever comes to her: Mata Amritanandamayi, fondly known as Amma, meaning the Mother.

Born in 1953 (currently 63 years old) in a poor fisherman family in a seaside village of Kollam, she was named Sudhamani in her childhood. Starting with helping her family and siblings to make a living and do household work, she set upon doing different spiritual disciplines by herself in her spare time. Further, a natural urge came to her to embrace people to comfort them in their suffering, and she did so without any distinction of age or gender barriers. Naturally, she faced a lot of scolding and reprimands from the society and parents for this, but she was like a free flowing river and no obstruction could stall her path. Gradually, more and more people started to come to her, and some among them recognized her as their spiritual guru. They started to practice their own spiritual sadhna under her guidance, and gradually established a Math in 1981 at her village. By and by, her name continued to spread, and due to the request of her devotees, she conducted her first tour away from India in 1987, and these tours have continued annually since then. Her annual tours comprise of South India, some parts of North India, South East Asia, America and some European countries. The Mata Amritanandamayi Math has become a very widespread organization which runs many schools and technical universities, and undertakes innumerable social service work in many parts of India, Africa and other countries. The scale of the social service continues to expand due to the valuable and generous help received by a large number of devotees.

But while there are multiple organizations which do invaluable social service, what makes Amma special is her personal appeal and indescribable energy. For two to three days a week, her schedule consists of hugging people who have come to meet her. The procedure is quite simple to decribe: she will be sitting at a podium, people will come in a queue, get her hug, a small prasad and her blessings, and they will move on. But Amma herself would be continuing this as long as the last person has not been hugged. Quite often, this process goes on for more than 14-16 hours at a stretch, and sometimes it even crosses 24 hours on some special occasions! During this process, Amma herself continues to talk to people around her, listening to their problems, offering advise and suggestions, giving instructions and ideas, and distributing love to endless number of people. And during all this, she seldom eats or drinks something, and nobody has seen any iota of tiredness on her face! Even after such long hours of intense activity, she is the most fresh and smiling person after any program. I am sure that lacs of other people too wonder how this is humanely possible.

Though lot of social work happens through her organization, and she primarily seems to be hugging one and all, her actual persona is above both these realm. Such flow of energy without any semblance of tiredness of not humanly possible without being connected to an inward source. Due to her intense spiritual practice, she has been able to realize the higher realms of consciousness, and guides her select group of monks and spiritual seekers in their own quest. While I have no idea about how to get to know or even compare people on lofty heights, all I can say is to me, she seems to be perched on the highest planes.

Her programs are not only a place for hugs, but also are decked with a variety of deliciously cooked dishes by her devotees, and soulful songs or bhajans. The place gets converted to a mart of joy where people feel the cool breeze of love and compassion emanating from all directions. Amma herself is never a dull person for a moment. Along with hugging, she is busy either laughing, making jokes, and feeding her numerous sons different delicacies. She is as cheerful and unpretentious meeting with the Prime Minister of India as she is with anyone who comes to meet her.

The impressions gathered above have been based on my personal observations rather than any second hand information. There is much to be learned about life from someone who lives it in such a free and joyful flow. 

Meeting a remarkable family: Dr Tsuneto and Akiko Tokunaga

A photo album for this trip is in this album.

In our Indian tradition, we have a saying called वसुधैव कुटुंबकम, in roman script (vasudhaiva kutumbakam), meaning that the entire world is a family of ours. Last week, I went for a trip to Shimanai Kaido, where I had an opportunity to see this ideal being practiced in real life.  I had the very good fortune to stay as a guest of Dr Tsuneto Tokunaga, and Mrs Akiko Tokunaga, and this blogpost is a humble attempt to share the story of these remarkable people in brief.

As mentioned before, my friend, an avid Airbnb user found that in Imabari, there is a certain host family(using Airbnb) who seemed to have been getting extremely nice reviews. I didn't pay much attention to it that time, thinking that being polite or giving compliment is a usual human nature, more so in Japan. But meeting this family proved the inadequacy of words in describing the bright side of human nature.

Japanese people are know to be reserved, and mostly meet others outside their home. Hence I had not got much opportunity to see their homes first hand(except of a friend's house in Hokkaido). This visit also provided me an opportunity to have a look into the amazingly maintained Japanese houses.

A short stay of 12 hours
After cycling for about 30 kms in five hours, and hitchhiking the remaining way to Imabari, I found myself at 9:00 pm at Imabari station. Airbnb information talked about 'bed and breakfast', hence i reasoned with myself and my friend that first have the dinner outside, and then reach the house of the guest, so as not to bother them with our hunger. But we had informed about our arrival time to be at 9:00, so we decided to proceed to the house with some cup noodles for worst case scenario.

Outside his home, we were welcomed by Dr Tsuneto, who asked: "Are you from India?" On our node of yes, he cheerfully led us inside into his home, promptly into the dining space. His wife, Mrs Akiko was there to welcome us, and had an equally cheerful demeanor.  We were made to feel completely at home by their bright smiles, kind words and welcoming gesture. First of all, Dr Tsuneto showed us around the house, the resting area, and other parts of the house. The house was impeccably clean, beautifully decorated with paintings, and extremely well organized. Honestly, I could only compare it with nothing less than a five star accommodation!

Soon after that, Mrs Akiko asked us to have dinner, which she had already and specially prepared for us, consisting of vegetable tempura(fried vegetables)!! I was not prepared for so much of hospitality from an unknown, and an elderly family. Despite our soft protests, we were lovingly made to sit down for dinner. Our host family also sat down with us. By this time, I got extremely curious about them, and how someone could be so nice and warming to visitors. Isn't it tiring, and a nuisance to have unknown people arriving at one's home? I tried to look into the mind of them in this interaction.

Getting to know the family

Dr Tsuneto Tokunaga: 77 years old. Born in Fukuyama, Hiroshima prefecture.
                                       Worked as Doctor at Red cross hospital in Takamatsu.
                                       Retired 3 years ago.
                                       Family name: Joyato

Mrs Akiko Tokunaga is 73.

They have two sons and two daughters, and one son is a Physician in Hiroshima university. Both are in excellent health of the body and spirit. I found that their nature was very much complimentary to each other, there was remarkable harmony between them in thinking, and they helped each other in everything they did. There was no ego involved at all.

Next surprising thing was to know that after retiring, that is only 3 years ago, they had undertaken a walking journey of 1400 kms!  As they said, they were helped in this journey by many people, and thus they also want to help others. They started hosting people from December 2014, and in this short duration of about an year and a half, they have hosted about 150 people from about 45 different countries! A complete list of travelers, country wise is given below:

They try to host the family every three days. I asked Joyato san what does he do in free time. His reply was that he doesn't have free time, as replying to hosting requests takes all of his time.
They told us that they have visited many countries, and have no favorites. It was interesting to know that while they have hosted 100s of people till now, they themselves have never got an opportunity to be a guest of others, and have always stayed in hotels!

About his religious beliefs, Joyato san mentioned it as NOBA, that is 'Not Only But Also'. He elaborated it he doesn't have strong belief as such, and accepts goodness from all sides or religions. That is, not only his own, but other religions also :) What a sweet message for plurality!

In the course of conversation, I inquired them how often do they meet their children. Honestly, I thought that it might not not be so often, and hence they invite new people to homes to keep boredom away in some way. To my sweet surprise, they told me that they have a family dinner with their children and grandchildren every weekend, that's Saturday and Sunday! I don't know many families who have such a nice family tradition, and close bonding between parents and children, at least in Japan.

After talking with them over dinner about 45 minutes, being tired, I went to sleep. Next day, when I woke up at 6 am and went downstairs, I found them already awake, and preparing breakfast for us!! That was really overwhelming to see, two elderly people preparing breakfast at such an early hour for guests they don't know properly. And they have been doing it for numerous people, because it makes their beautiful heart happy. All of this without any pretension, any show off, and without any slightest expectations of any thing in return. It was as if some one is living the ideals in scriptures, but which only a handful have the depth to follow.

Breakfast and Return Journey, and a gift for us
After getting ready in the morning, I decided to take a walk outside and in the neighborhood. After returning from that, an extremely delicious and nicely prepared breakfast set, all vegetables was waiting! It was everything I often dream of: nutritious, and elegantly prepared.

I couldn't thank Joyato san enough for all the hospitality and love he had been showering. But apparently, it was not all, and more surprised lay in store. Over the breakfast, I came to know that they actually donate all the token money they get from their guests to an organization called 'Doctors without Borders'. Their care and concern thus extends in many directions. Truly, love sees no distinctions, no boundaries.

The name Joyato itself means "one who provides light". On the gates of Joyato san, it was written 'Light house for travelers'. Beautiful example of one's name and actions being in complete harmony.

In this small stay itself, I felt blessed many times. To see a family transcending a generation barrier, language barrier and self-barrier to extend genuine affection to passers by is a humbling experience. We all need to open our doors more.

I had to leave in the morning itself back to Okunoshima. These blessed people themselves suggested that on a short stretch of that route, it's difficult to find public transport, and hence offered to drive us up to that point, about 40 mins drive away! Again despite our protests that it's not needed, they prevailed on us, and had their way. Further, before leaving their home, they also gave parting away gifts to us, in the form of beautiful clothes! On the other hand, we had nothing to offer them. Also, even if we had something to offer, it would be really, really nothing compared to what we got from them.

Thus, in a short span of 12 hours, I had the good fortune to witness how a beautiful mind works, and how some people rise above their own comfort to bring comfort to other people. I hope more and more people will come to know of the beautiful and blessed life of Dr Tsuneto and Mrs Akiko. My heartfelt thanks to them once again!

Trip to Shimanami Kaido

A photo album for this trip is in this album.

The long awaited journey
Before arriving in Japan, I already had my blog, and had expected that I would write about life over here frequently. That didn't happen somehow. But finally, I am getting to write about a trip I undertook. This trip itself came about after lot of procrastination.

Anyway, this weekend(14-15 May 2016) I had a chance to visit a cycling stretch in Japan, known as 'Shimanami Kaido'. This stretch extends from Onomichi in Hiroshima prefecture in Eastern Japan, to Imabari in the Ehime prefecture towards south. The total stretch is 71 km long, which passes through 6 different islands namely Mukaishima, Inoshima, Ikuchi, Omishima, Hakata and Oshima, after which there is Imabari. This route lies in the Seto inland sea, and is famous for its scenic beauty. I had came to know about it from a visitor to Japan, and had thought about going there for long time. Somehow, mostly due to laziness, it was always put on a back-burner.

As fate would have it, I lazily mentioned about visiting Shimanai Kaido to a friend, and the plan was set up, but it was scheduled after an intensely busy week for me when I had no time to plan or check any details of the trip by myself. Generally I try to plan and cross check the important parts of a trip, but left everything 'Ram bharose' this time :p Also, I generally travel in night in a bus to minimize staying anywhere in night. But I was told that Airbnb in Imabari is showing about a host who has attracted very good reviews. I reluctantly agreed about that, and didn't think much over it. The plan was to start cycling on Saturday from afternoon about 1 pm, go as far as our stamina allowed, then take a bus or ferry to Imabari and staying with the host family. Next day was scheduled to visit Okunoshima, an Island famous for large number of inhabiting rabbits and then return back. 

Setting things in motion

Come Saturday, and I was bound towards Onomichi. We had a good buffet lunch in the Salvatore, where they prepared special vegetarian pasta on special request. That uplifted the mood, and energized the mind before a seemingly tiring cycling session. Soon, we proceeded towards the bike rental area, hoping to select from a large range of options, as this route is well known and popular. But to our surprise, we found that almost all bikes were already borrowed, leaving a very small pool for us. Those bikes were with small tyre, but we had no other options. Further we came to know that the rental shops closes at 5:00 pm, and rented bikes must be returned before that, else it can only be returned next day. If we had that information earlier, the trip schedule would have been different. But many times, not micromanaging things too teach you lot of new things :)

Finally, engines roaring, winds streaming, sun glazing, our cycles roared ahead at 2:30 pm in the afternoon, from Mukaishima towards Imabari. The weather was almost perfect with deep blue sky. I was eager to get near the open sea, and the cycles didn't disappoint. The scenery laying in front of me was a revelation. Small mountains littered across, bluish water connecting them, majestic bridges to jump across islands, and the unblemished road full of smiling cycling enthusiasts.  

Climbing the mountain to cross the bridge seemed taxing, but was immediately well rewarded with a smooth trajectory downwards. The cycling was smooth, and with numerous breaks in between, we traversed three islands, which was about 30 kms. Along the way, the islands were full of lemon and orange trees. The lemon trees were full of its flowers and its strong smell permeated the island, but we didn't see any lemon fruit actually. We were getting the a strong lemon smell mixed with the smell of fresh and open sea. The whole scenery was as beautiful as I could have expected from a long awaited trip. 

But as we had started late, the sun started to get dim, and sunset was in sight. It was given that we cannot return the bike by designated time. Also, though there was a ferry from Hakata(4th Island) to Imabari at 7:20, it became clear we are not gonna make it. It was about 7:30 pm when we reached the third island Omishima, and the sun was almost set by that time. Though tiredness had not crept in, careful to avoid any risk, we decided to call it a day for cycling, and take a bus to Imabari. At the Omoshima bike rental, we had no option(with due apologizes to the rental system) but to carefully return our bikes after locking them and hiding the keys inside the bike rental papers. The bus stand was nearby only. But when we reached there, we found that the last bus had already departed for Imabari, and we had no way to use public transport! These islands are small places, with few residents, so we didn't have many people around. Luckily, an old lady at the bus station offered us some help and gave her contact number in case we need it. Thanking her, the question remained now how to reach Imabari, which was about 40 kms away.

Hitchhiking

I had never hitchhiked in Japan before, neither in India. While one option was definitely to stay back in Omishima instead of going to Imabari, the curiosity to meet our hosts, replete with nice reviews convinced us to move onward. We decided to take hitchhike, keeping in mind the helpfulness of the Japanese people. And lo and behold, no sooner than we asked for help, it arrived! We waited at a signal for a car to help us reach Iamabari, and a young man stopped his car, and cheerfully agreed to ferry us over there. He was friendly guy, in his late twenties I guess, and the discussion with him veered around life in Japan. The roads in Japan are excelled, and the car journey seemed like a breeze, bringing us to Imabari very quickly. Profoundly thanking him, who dropped us at the station, we proceeded to the house of our host: Mr Tsuneto.

Staying as the guest of Mr Tsuneto, at his extremely well kept house was a revelation in many senses. So much so that it deserves an entire post in itself, which I will actually honored to write. A through and through gentleman, at the age of 77, he is an embodiment of cheerfulness and everything best that the Japanese civilization, or maybe humanity has to offer. We stayed there about 12 hours, but every moment of it was precious. 

Dr Tsuneto, or Joyato san was so gracious that next day, despite our loving protests, drove us back in the morning to Omishima island from where the plan was to go to Okunoshima, the rabbit island which has a perimeter of not more than 5 km. The ferry to it is a 15 mins ride, which brings people to this small island.

Usagi shima, or the Rabbit Island

I had been to Okunoshima once before, and had enjoyed the place. Being there once again was equally fascinating. The island is surrounded by very clear water, numerous rabbits, many families and children who bring nicely cut carrot, cabbage and other rabbit food to feed these cute bunnies. The rabbits seemed to have adapted to this environment of pampering and gluttoning, and won't move even if you try to scare them. They are sleeping everywhere, yawning, or otherwise running away after snatching a piece of carrot from you. Entire island is full of such views.

But this cute island hides a rather dark history behind itself. Due to its small size and thus hiding, it was used as a secret location for developing poison gas before the world war 2. The remnants of poison gas building can be seen even today. The island is surrounded by check posts which was used to keep an eye on any potential attackers on this place. The rabbits were also used initially to check the effect of poison. But now the place has a museum dedicated to show case the ills of such horrific projects, and is trying to redeem itself.

Epilogue

After staying in Okunoshima for about 3 hours, we took the ferry towards Onomichi, where the return bus was from Fukuyama at 6:30 pm. Luckily, before boarding the bus, we had sufficient time and came to know that a Rose festival was being held nearby in Fukuyama. It was a small garden, full of thousands of roses of many different vibrant color. It was beautiful scene.

But all good things come to an end. So did this trip too. But maybe, all endings lead to new beginnings too. There are many other trips which I have kept delaying due to my laziness. Hope I will get to travel to few other places as well in Japan. 

The Ulysses Contract

Yesterday I came across a term called 'The Ulysses contract'. or 'The Ulysses Pact'. It refers to a method of controlling the mind in the face of immediate temptations.

While we experience diverse things in our everyday life, both the good and the bad experiences fade away slowly. What remains in the present thus carries more weight, and it exerts disproportionate influence on us, making us relinquish our long term goals for immediate short term ones, which might be unprofitable. For example, if one's aim is to loose weight, the temptation of a delicious icecream in front overrules our long term desire of achieving fitness. Overcoming such temptations, by the method of brute force is 'The Ulysses contract'.

Image credit: http://www.futilitycloset.com/2014/02/06/the-ulysses-contract/

According to the greek mythology, Ulysses was the greek super hero of the Trojan war. After the war, he undertook a long sea journey back home. On the way, there was an island, inhabited by damsels with exquisite voice, whose song attracted many of the ships. But the island was surrounded by sharp cliffs, which resulted in ship-wreak, and subsequent death of everybody aboard. Ulysses ship was to cross this area, and he too had a desire to listen to the damsels voice. What did he do in that situation?
Ulysses ordered all his sailors to put wax in their ears, and asked him to tie to a pole. Further, he ordered that after hearing the song, whatever he does like ordering sailors to go towards the island, screaming etc, that be disregarded and he be lashed with a whip. In this way, they crossed that part without inviting self destruction.

A variant of this strategy, called 'The Uncharity' has been used by some people to keep themselves on track. For example, if they break a promise to themselves, they donate money to an organization they don't like.

Where can the concept of Ulysses contract be used? Is it a foolproof method? For example, most people will agree that trying to taste drugs by invoking the Ulysses contract would be a foolish strategy. On the other hand, eating an extra icecream, and then jogging for double the amount maybe easily acceptable.

While many times we are uncertain about future decisions, Ulysses contract is a method to keep us on track in the face of a known certainty. We often know ourselves, our weaknesses, and our temptations. This type of brute force method helps to overcome then in our weakest of moments. Thus, go ahead, and sign some contracts for yourself !!

Am I living my life?

Recently, a friend organized a plan to visit someplace. He asked his acquaintances to list down the weekends they are free, so that a common date can be decided based on everyone's convenience. Everyone listed down their free dates, including me. And then a harsh truth dawned upon me, which I have been trying to conceal from myself for years: I am not living but just existing.

The comparison between everyone's free date was glaring. Everyone had their own schedule about busy and free days. Most were not available on at least someday, and had something to do. In contrast, as I have told people many times, "I was always free". I had no plans, no upcoming schedule for the weekends, no interesting activity to do, no direction. I was a deadwood, floating on the currents carrying wherever they wish to. All I had was only disorder in my personal life. I am describing this only for the weekend schedule, and not for the weekdays, but this would be just a lame excuse to myself.

The thought has been lurking in my mind for months and days, but I have somehow kept suppressing it. But today I pictured myself about a guy waking up on weekend, with absolutely no idea of what to do with his life. If at all, I would lazily do the unfinished work which should have been done on weekdays, during the office hours. Doing the same work on weekend blinds me on two counts: a) I am working so much b) I am finishing my work in time. But my mental picture about myself waking up on weekend with absolutely no idea and direction about a quality work to do is frightening.

We have two choices in life: either accept what is given to you, and follow that with satisfaction and peace. Otherwise, find and pave your own way, explore and find what you want to do, and do that properly. You can maybe, maybe not, afford to be directionless in the first case. But you absolutely cannot afford it in the second case, no matter even if you employ your own stupidity as an excuse for this.

Until I can alter the reality about myself, about a guy who wakes up on weekend without any clue about non professional schedules, its a time and life wasted.